Russian Leather Shoes Through the Ages: A Historical Perspective

The best leather in the world is Russian reindeer. It is coveted for its rugged appearance, strength, and functionality.

Novgorod shoemakers created four major kinds of shoes. A close connection between these makers and the marketplace was a characteristic of the time. The shoes were well-balanced and wide on the front and had narrow heels.

Traditional Russian shoes

Valenki (also also known as volnushechki, vykhodki, pimy or katanki) are hefty winter boots filled with wool. They are standard issue for Russian soldiers and police on the streets. The rugged boots, which literally translate to “made through felting” they are a Russian tradition from the Mongol tribes. They were expensive enough that they were able to cover the feet the Tsars.

Valenki made by hand are extremely robust, but they require lots of effort and time. The felt is molded and rolled into a boot-like shape by craftsmen they then put it in a steam bath to shrink. It takes a few hours to create an apron of valenki that can cost hundreds of dollars.

The Russian boots, despite their cost, have been popular for the long-running history of Russia’s winters. In the last two decades they’ve waned in popularity because people are now looking for lighter, more waterproof footwear.

A lot of young Russians have rediscovered their love for the traditional giay luoi nam. Moscow-based twins Olga and Galina Shantseva for instance create birchbark footwear that are adorned with Soviet-era art and are a hit among artists of the young generation. In addition an Russian-made brand of valenki is gaining traction abroad. It remains to be seen whether these boots will be able to gain an international following however, they are seeing a revival of fashion in Russia.

The past Russian leather shoes

A thorough study of archeological evidence, ethnographic and written sources helps to trace the development of shoe styles in the early Rus’. The huge quantity of shoes made from leather discovered during excavations from different periods of Novgorod existence suggests that distinct kinds of shoemakers worked in making footwear for craftsmen, princes and other classes (craftsmen princes, boysars, and craftsmen) and also for the nobles.

Lapti – a pair of soft footwear made of thin tree bark, usually birch, were worn by common people out in the country. They were fastened with rawhide laces that passed through the side slits on the sole and wound around feet. They were also worn over windings and stockings.

Hand-embossing hatch grain patterns can be seen on the oldest Russian boots. The best Russian reindeer hide is being tanned with a machine, making it durable and hardwearing. The most luxurious reindeer leather is often compared to it, however it is softer and hence more suited to making shoes.

The first felt shoes were called valenki. This name is derived from the method they used to make them. Felt was compressed with the help of a special tool known as “valenka”. The block of wood has a flat surface and numerous holes on where the wool was then being rolled. In Russia the process is referred to as “valyat”, which means rolling. After a while felt boots can be constructed using other materials. For added insulation they could be stuffed with hay or animal hair. The heel quarter could then be stiffened using layers of leather or birch-bark lining.

Medieval Russian shoe designs

The medieval Russian leather shoes were based off of the birchbark peasant’s shoe. The shoes were worn by windings, nogavits and nogavits. The shoe’s fastening was accomplished by means of long strings called obory that passing between the laces and wrapped around the shoe. The shoes also featured a sole made from larch bark or fir. The shoes were extremely comfortable and durable.

The artisan who worked on the shoe was required to be extremely skilled to create the best quality product. It’s not a surprise that so many pieces from this type of shoe were discovered in archeological layers dating from the 10th-13th centuries.

According to the First Novgorod Chronicle, at that time there were already distinct groups of leatherworkers and shoemakers. This can be proven through the fact that one was only a shoemaker if he owned an establishment where he was sewing footwear.

One of the most well-known types of Russian leather shoes were bakhily (also called bredni, brodni, butyli, lovchagi and Ostashi) Men’s work and hunting boots made from soft leather. These were jackboots with high tops that reached the knees or thighs. They were extremely durable, and people wore them in the forest for long periods of time. These boots were also worn by fishermen and hunters.

Soviet-era Russian footwear

The Soviet era saw the decline of traditional Russian shoemaking, since the new generation of craftsmen preferred modern shoes that came from Western countries. This was due to a mix of reasons, including the lack of interest in handmade products among young people as well as the increase in availability of factory-made shoes, and a change in taste.

Galoshes were a popular footwear preference during that period. They were made of felt and were worn over other footwear to protect against snow and ice, in addition to keeping the wearer’s feet warm. They were sewed together with the use of hidden or blind stitches, using leather pieces placed face-to-face and then abutting one another.

The Kazan Khanate is a kingdom that was born of Volga Bulgarian culture, traditions and arts and crafts that were inherited from the Mongol conquest was also known for its footwear made from bast. They were like regular boots, but had smaller bootlegs. There was no lining. The boots were secured with long strings, called obory, that ran through the side of the lapti and wound around the legs.

Novgorod leatherworkers were known for their specialization in bootlegs that were short and straight sides. These were called golenishcha, or golenicha. Their lengths were 17-22 cm. Archeological excavations in this period’s layers have revealed iron adszes [3] that were that were used to rid the flesh of skin as well as subcutaneous tissue.